Your Spring AC Checkup: What We Actually Do

Most people sign up for spring AC maintenance and have no real idea what is included. The contractor shows up, walks around the unit, makes some notes, hands you a bill, and leaves. We get calls from those customers in July when their unit dies, and the truth is the maintenance was a checkbox visit.

Here is what a real spring checkup looks like. This is what our techs do on every single visit, every single home, no shortcuts.

Why spring is the right time

On the Emerald Coast, the AC starts working hard in March. By June and July it is running almost all day. If something is wrong, you want to find it before the system is under stress in the middle of summer.

A small refrigerant leak in March is a $200 repair. Same leak in July, when the unit has been running 14 hours a day low on charge and the compressor finally gives up, is a $3,000 to $5,000 conversation. The math on spring maintenance is almost always in your favor.

Outside (the condenser)

The outdoor unit takes more abuse than anything else, especially on the coast. Salt, sand, pollen, lawn debris, all of it. We:

• Pull leaves and debris out of the top grille and around the base
• Wash the outdoor coil with water, if accessible (this is where most companies cut corners). Salt and grime trap heat and make your unit work harder.
• Inspect the fan blades for damage or imbalance
• Check the fan motor amperage
• Inspect the contactor for pitting (a worn contactor can fail at the worst time)
• Check the capacitor reading against rated specs (capacitors weaken over time before they fail outright)
• Check refrigerant lines for visible damage or oil residue (oil = leak)
• Look at the pad. Is the unit level? Is it on a stand? Salt-air homes do better elevated.

Inside (the air handler)

The indoor side is where most of the comfort happens. We:

• Replace the air filter
• Treat the indoor coil if needed (over years it builds up a film)
• Clear the condensate drain line and pour vinegar through it to kill algae
• Clean the drain pan
• Verify the safety switch is working
• Check the blower wheel for buildup. A dirty blower wheel costs you cooling capacity and air quality.
• Test the blower motor amps
• Inspect ductwork connections we can see for separations or damage

Electrical and controls

• Check every visible electrical connection for tightness (heat-cool cycles loosen connections over years)
• Look for any signs of overheating on wires or terminals
• Test the thermostat for accuracy. Set point versus actual temperature.
• Verify the system is wired correctly for cooling mode and the call sequence is right

Refrigerant check

We do not just glance at the gauges. We:

• Connect gauges and read both pressures, if temperature difference is out of range
• Measure superheat and subcool to verify charge is correct, not just present
• Compare to manufacturer specs for that exact system at the current outdoor temperature
• Look for any signs of moisture in the system

If we find a leak, we do not just top it off and leave. We tell you, give you options, and let you decide. More on refrigerant leaks here.

The written report you should get

Every visit ends with a written report. Not a generic checklist. We write down what we found, what we cleaned, what we tested, what your readings were, and anything we recommend keeping an eye on.

If nothing is wrong, the report says so. If something is borderline, the report tells you what to watch and when to expect to deal with it.

What "lazy" maintenance looks like (and how to spot it)

If your old maintenance company was doing any of this, they were not really maintaining your unit:

• Visit lasted under 15 minutes
• Tech never opened the indoor unit
• No water was used (you did not see them wash the outdoor coil)
• No vinegar or treatment poured in the drain
• Filter was not changed
• No written report
• Tech wrote "looks good" and left

You are paying for time. If they were in and out in under 15 minutes, you got nothing.

Frequently asked questions